Kamakura and the Earthquake

This is a photograph of me on Kamakura Beach, where Tony and I went last weekend. A 45 minute train ride south from Tokyo, it is an interesting seaside town (a little bit touristy, but then who were we to complain?) with a number of surfers trying out the waves on a cool and windy day. It used to be the capital of Japan of the Shogunate. There are a number of wonderful Buddhist temples such as Engaku-ji there and also the 44 foot high Amida Buddha statue (below). For me, the most interesting part of being in Kamakura is that on September 1st, 1923, this is where my father was when the massive 1923 earthquake, known as the Great Kanto Earthquake, hit Tokyo. He was there with my grandfather, brother and sister to celebrate his sister's birthday. His mother and eldest brother were in Germany. My grandfather then departed to return to Tokyo, where he was serving as German ambassador, leaving the children with their Japanese nanny, as they were planning to stay some while longer on vacation. When the massive earthquake struck, the nanny had the good sense to take the children with her, moving inland in time to avoid the powerful tsunami that engulfed the beach. They escaped to a bamboo forest and then to a nearby village until their father was able to ensure their safe return to Tokyo. The earthquake caused devastating damage to Tokyo, Yokohama and Kamakura. When it struck, people were cooking lunch over open fires which then swept through the town, driving many to be burned to death or drowned as they leaped into the harbor to escape the flames. It was estimated that between 100,000 and 142,000 died in the earthquake, tsunami and fires. 1.9 million were left homeless.  But looking at that beach on a sunny March day, with the cherry and magnolia blossoms just beginning to emerge, it was difficult to imagine what it must have been like 87 years ago on that day. I did like to think I was in the same spot as my then 8 year old father and wondered what he must have felt when all this occurred. I just wish we had talked about it and so many other extraordinary times in his life....