Kamakura and the Earthquake

This is a photograph of me on Kamakura Beach, where Tony and I went last weekend. A 45 minute train ride south from Tokyo, it is an interesting seaside town (a little bit touristy, but then who were we to complain?) with a number of surfers trying out the waves on a cool and windy day. It used to be the capital of Japan of the Shogunate. There are a number of wonderful Buddhist temples such as Engaku-ji there and also the 44 foot high Amida Buddha statue (below). For me, the most interesting part of being in Kamakura is that on September 1st, 1923, this is where my father was when the massive 1923 earthquake, known as the Great Kanto Earthquake, hit Tokyo. He was there with my grandfather, brother and sister to celebrate his sister's birthday. His mother and eldest brother were in Germany. My grandfather then departed to return to Tokyo, where he was serving as German ambassador, leaving the children with their Japanese nanny, as they were planning to stay some while longer on vacation. When the massive earthquake struck, the nanny had the good sense to take the children with her, moving inland in time to avoid the powerful tsunami that engulfed the beach. They escaped to a bamboo forest and then to a nearby village until their father was able to ensure their safe return to Tokyo. The earthquake caused devastating damage to Tokyo, Yokohama and Kamakura. When it struck, people were cooking lunch over open fires which then swept through the town, driving many to be burned to death or drowned as they leaped into the harbor to escape the flames. It was estimated that between 100,000 and 142,000 died in the earthquake, tsunami and fires. 1.9 million were left homeless.  But looking at that beach on a sunny March day, with the cherry and magnolia blossoms just beginning to emerge, it was difficult to imagine what it must have been like 87 years ago on that day. I did like to think I was in the same spot as my then 8 year old father and wondered what he must have felt when all this occurred. I just wish we had talked about it and so many other extraordinary times in his life....

Kabuki Theater

Last night we attended a play at the Kabuki-Za Theater in Ginza, pictured on the left. In about 6 weeks time, the theater will be pulled down and rebuilt. Apparently, it does not comply with current earthquake building codes. It is quite a landmark and so many people were outside taking photographs and watching the large clock count down the time until its demolition. Extra performances are being put on so that many people have a chance to attend as there will no doubt be a gap in time while the rebuilding takes place.

Kabuki is a traditional Japanese form of theater with its origins in the Edo period. In contrast to the older Japanese art forms such as Noh,  Kabuki was the popular culture of the common townspeople and not of the higher social classes. Kabuki plays are about historical events, moral conflicts and love relationships. The actors use an old fashioned language which is difficult to understand even for some Japanese people. Actors speak in monotonous voices accompanied by traditional Japanese instruments. In the early years, both men and women acted in Kabuki plays. Later during the Edo period, the Tokugawa shogunate forbade women from acting, a restriction that survives to the present day. Several male kabuki actors are therefore specialists in playing female roles. One actor we saw last night was an eighty year old man known as a Living National Treasure and he was acting with his 9 year-old son. There was also another father/son pair of actors, the son playing a major female role and the father the main male role in the play. The story was the final act in a three-part play, parts one and two having been performed earlier in the day. Kabuki Theater is extremely stylized and the actors move very slowly and deliberately with minimal facial expression. Clues to their character are in their costume, hair and make up. The 'bad guy' has an orange/red face and the more elaborate the hairstyle and a beautifully embroidered red kimono on a 'female' character shows that they are high born. The actors entered and exited along a catwalk to one side of the theater and their exit was very slow, with specific moves, and particularly significant. We were fortunate to have the wife of one of Tony's work colleagues with us and as a lifelong fan of Kabuki, she explained many of the nuances to us. We also had radio earpieces and were able to understand the (very complicated) story through an excellent narration. The performance was 3 hours long..... Kabuki is not to be rushed. However, once we became accustomed to the very slow and deliberate pacing, it was a truly fascinating experience. Oh yes-thank you, Henry, for the reminder (see posting below), Tony bought peanuts in the intermission that, to his great surprise, were liberally sprinkled with small, whole, dried fish. Such was his hunger (dinner was still a long way off) he actually ate them.....

Seoul moment

Well, I am finally back from the UK, where I spent 10 days. My main purpose of flying to England was to attend the funeral of my uncle. The memorial service was very special with readings by two of my cousins and a wonderful eulogy by the third. The poignant moment for me was when my uncle's 10-day old grandson was brought into the church by his father. He was born just hours before my uncle died, so a bittersweet moment for all of us.

I had a good time with Tony's mother and we even celebrated Mother's Day together with his sister, 3 of her children and a fiancee. A jolly lunch before I disappeared to Heathrow to catch my flight back to Tokyo.

My journey home was on Asiana, a Korean airline and hence my route took me via Seoul, South Korea, where I spent two interesting hours before my onward flight to Tokyo. Since I had been sitting for approximately 12 hours, I decided that walking was my best option for filling the time between flights. A little light window shopping at the duty free stores, but mostly I was people-watching. I am, after all, my mother's daughter! What fascinated me the most was that as I looked at young couples (of which there appeared to be many), I noticed that the majority of them were dressed alike. They looked like pairs of twins. Alike in every way, shirt, jacket, pants and shoes. The only variation might be if one was wearing a blue-and-white striped shirt and the partner was wearing red-and-white stripes. I have no idea if they were all heading for a "Dress Like Me" convention, or whether this is the popular dress code of the moment in Seoul. When I asked Tony about this, he had yet to notice it on his trips there! The people-watcher gene has passed him by, it seems. I would love to know the reason for this fashion, but may never find out......if anybody can enlighten me, I would love to hear from them.

Well, it had to happen

This is just a brief posting. Today, I was exploring different areas that we are thinking of for places to live. As I cast my eyes about me, I saw a Starbucks coffee shop that was advertising Cherry Blossom flavored frappuccino. A perfect blend of flavors and cultures. I have not savored it yet, but it is probably quite distinctive!

I will be away from Tokyo for 10 days from March 4th, so no posting for a little while.

Love to all,

Julie and Tony

A Story about a Dog

While hunting for somewhere to live this week, we encountered an area called Shibuya. Shibuya has a huge railway station and just outside is Hachiko Square, which is one of the world's largest intersections. When the pedestrian crossing lights turn green, the entire intersection becomes a car-free area and you can cross at any angle. Quite impressive, if daunting.

Hugo and Ryan with Hachiko

The story of how the square got its name appealed to me and I hope it will appeal to anybody who loves or has loved a dog.

Hachiko Square got its name from a faithful dog that once waited by the station. As the legend goes, the dog, Hachiko, would wait everyday in the same spot for his master to return home from work. Hachiko faithfully waited by the station year after year, and night after night. Even years after his master had long passed away he faithfully waited. When Hachiko died on March 8th 1935, many hearts were touched. Today a statue of Hachiko resides in the square named after him and it has become the most famous meeting place in the city.

A Brief Update

Thought I might post a brief update. We have been busy house/apartment hunting, so not a lot to report lately. We had a great weekend, walking great distances, exploring the city, going to see Avatar (3D in English) and window shopping at all the expensive stores in the Ginza area. We went to an antique/flea market, which was fascinating and full of items from both east and west. 

On Monday, we went to the new members reception at the Tokyo American Club. It is in a temporary location while a new club is being built, which will be backing onto the Russian Embassy. The current location is pretty impressive for a temporary site and has a great book/DVD library, lots of classes for language and culture and a very active womens' group. So, once we are officially members, I hope to widen my horizons with new faces and new skills. I hope I can take a language class as my skills are improving just minutely with the Rosetta Stone software that I am using currently.

We are still enjoying exploring the restaurants around the city and, as you can see from the photo above, have had some unusual menu items. Our relocation agent took us to a noodle restaurant for lunch on Tuesday, where you look at small photos on a machine, put in your money and press the button corresponding to your choice. Slightly tricky as the photos were miniscule and the descriptions in Japanese. However, with some assistance, we were able to make our choices. The tickets that are issued from the machine are then given to a waitress, who very quickly brings the food to you. A wonderful, flavorful steaming bowl of noodles with vegetables (me) or meat (Tony) then arrives at the table......and a plastic bib to protect your clothes from all those sloshing noodles. All for $5 each. The restaurant was tiny, but packed with office workers and city workmen alike. 

The house we are leaning towards is called Sakura House (Cherry Blossom House) and is in a great area, near a park and just uphill from the subway station and lots of small shops and restaurants. It is fairly central and will be an easy commute for Tony. However, we are still looking at anything the relocation agent sends our way.

I will add to this post, when I have more time (who thought I could be so busy, so soon).

Love to all,

Julie and Tony

Earthquakes and Snow and Sun-Oh My!

Well, it has been a busy week, as the lack of any postings on this blog will show.  We are still learning to get around on the underground and continue to find kind and helpful souls to point us in the right direction. We are even helped by Japanese people who do not speak a word of English. Lots of pointing and nodding and smiling and we are on our way again.

On Wednesday we woke to the feeling of a train passing under our bed. Since we are on the 19th floor, I was somewhat surprised and then even more so, when Tony told me it was an earthquake. Just as if it was a thunderstorm or lightning flash! We later learned that it was 4.8 on the Richter Scale and that this happens regularly.....everybody carried on their day as if nothing had happened. This is another aspect of life here that I will have to become accustomed to.

On Thursday, after the snow had melted on the ground (just a light dusting, I am relieved to say) Tony had a big open house in his new offices on Thursday with a couple of hundred people, representing many of the large corporations and trading houses, passing through and bearing gifts of fruit, flowers, chocolates, wine and champagne. No event goes by without a gift being offered, another custom which is evidence of the charming and generous nature of the Japanese.

On Friday, our well-informed and energetic, if diminutive, relocation agent Ayako, took us around various different parts of the city to get a feel for where we might like to live. We visited areas of high rise apartments and large supermarkets, like Roppongi, and other places where there are smaller homes and quieter back streets, near parks and with delightful shopping areas full of individual stores, like Hiroo and Azabu. We are hoping to find somewhere to live in one of the latter areas. Then you can all come and stay! That same day, we three had lunch in a tiny basement sushi bar, where we sat at an oblong counter, with a sushi chef in the middle of a revolving conveyor belt with dishes of sushi and miso soup circulating around. You helped yourself to the sushi, or called out an order to the chef and instantly he made your request and put it on the conveyor belt. At the end, they count the number of plates in front of you (plus the delicious local beers) and you pay on your way out. Some of the best (and cheapest) food we have had so far. $25 for three of us. Needless to day, it was a very popular venue. So, Tokyo does not have to cost us an arm and a leg, after all.

I continue to marvel at the glorious flowers everywhere, even in the chilly February climate and hope to create a whole album of photos to show you. On Thursday I found some floating flower pots (see top photograph) and an arrangement in a pot, which, on closer inspection, were tiny cabbages of different colors (to left).
Delightful.


I still haven't seen Mt. Fuji from our window, but the sun is shining today.........

We love to hear your observations, either on this site, or by email.

Sayonara,

Julie and Tony